tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-23277230968481546362024-03-24T08:10:04.599+01:00Rock 'n iceA blog about my (alpine)climbing adventures, some gear reviews and interesting news from the climbing world.Bart Vaganéehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04021584561148790832noreply@blogger.comBlogger99125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-89232870311480718352016-11-25T16:33:00.000+01:002016-11-25T16:33:35.434+01:00Logan TraverseWhat a fantastic expedition! It seems like I should learn how to packraft before I go skitouring next time... ;)<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/47820741" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="640"></iframe>
<a href="https://vimeo.com/47820741">Logan Traverse, narrated, 12 min.</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/user11216027">Luc Mehl</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-67459438906102339162016-06-02T17:51:00.001+02:002016-06-02T17:56:31.854+02:00Tromsø iceSome pictures of my ice climbing trip to Tromsø in northern Norway. Enjoy!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A lost fishing boat</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: x-small;">A view on Kval</span><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">ø</span><span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">ya island</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">An old, worn shed in Troms<span style="font-size: x-small;">ø</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Troms<span style="font-size: x-small; text-align: start;">ø harbour with Tromsdalstinden (1238m) in the background.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steven climbing a pitch in the quarry.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pavel following a snowy mixed pitch</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing in darkness becomes a habit after a while...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Steven climbing ice in perfect Norwegian conditions.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spindrift beard, a new trend for iceclimbers?</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeroen and Steven getting ready to rappel into the night.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jeroen placing pro!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aurora Borealis</td></tr>
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View on Blåmann from the house.</div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-66100711679815119812015-12-28T14:00:00.000+01:002016-01-01T12:36:36.313+01:00Antarctica ContestHi there!<br />
<br />
I'm competing in a contest to win an expedition to Antarctica. Can you vote for me please? It takes only 5".<br />
<br />
You would do me a great favour! Thanks in advance!<br />
<br />
<i>Hey allemaal!</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Ik doe mee aan een wedstrijd om een reis naar Antarctica te winnen. Ik zou graag van deze reis gebruik willen maken om mijn lessen biologie en aardrijkskunde rond de opwarming van de aarde aan te vullen met eigen ervaringen en foto's van dit prachtige, maar bedreigde continent.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Zou iedereen willen stemmen op mij en dit bericht willen delen? Alvast bedankt!</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<a href="https://oceanwide-expeditions.com/contest/show/13159">https://oceanwide-expeditions.com/contest/show/13159</a><br />
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-7503544597162427192015-12-14T15:56:00.001+01:002015-12-28T13:25:47.304+01:00Stage Bergbeklimmen Beginners - Glocknergruppe, OostenrijkBeste lezers,<br />
<br />
Van 2 tot 9 juli 2016 begeleid ik samen met Bart Smets en Brenda De Fré een beginnersstage bergbeklimmen in het gebied van de Grossglockner in Oostenrijk.<br />
<br />
Heb je een goede conditie en heb je een KVB 3 of gelijkwaardige ervaring en je wil graag beklimmingen doen in het hooggebergte, dan is deze stage iets voor jou! (voor verdere deelnamevoorwaarden, zie link onderaan)<br />
<br />
<h3>
Wij bieden je het volgende aan:</h3>
<h4>
In België</h4>
<br />
<ul>
<li><b>Twee voorbereidingsmomenten</b> op 11 en 22 mei voor wat informatie en om al wat technieken in te oefenen.</li>
</ul>
<h4>
In de Alpen</h4>
<div>
<ul>
<li><b>Ijsscholing:</b> stap- en klimtechnieken met stijgijzers en pickel, plaatsing van verankeringen in ijs. </li>
<li><b>Sneeuwscholing</b>, dat is zowel stappen met als zonder pickel en crampons … én veilig leren jezelf
afremmen na een eventuele val. </li>
<li>In <b>rots</b> gaan we jullie kennis en kunde wat verruimen op heel ander terrein dan je mee bekend bent
van de vertrouwde klimmassieven, wat dan ook aangepaste zekeringstechnieken vergt. </li>
<li><b>Tochtvoorbereiding</b>, te beginnen bij gebieds- en tochtkeuze, weersvoorspelling enz… komen meer
dan eens aan bod, veelal ’s avonds of vlak voor het avondmaal. </li>
<li><b>Oriëntatie</b> op basis van kaart, kompas en hoogtemeter zal zowel onderweg ingeoefend worden als
bij de voorbereiding in de hut. </li>
<li>Ook het leren <b>inschatten van risico’s</b> hoort erbij, net als daar de juiste beslissing aan koppelen… en
wat als het desondanks toch mis gaat ? De correcte benadering van een noodsituatie is ook
elementaire kennis voor een bergsporter.</li>
</ul>
<div>
Voor meer informatie kan je terecht via deze links: <a href="http://www.bvkb.be/v2/files/toerski/Stage_Bergbeklimmen_Beginners_Glocknergruppe_3-9juli2016.pdf">http://www.bvkb.be/v2/files/toerski/Stage_Bergbeklimmen_Beginners_Glocknergruppe_3-9juli2016.pdf</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.klimenbergsportfederatie.be/stages/bergbeklimmen-voor-beginners-glocknergruppe-bvkb1601?id=521">http://www.klimenbergsportfederatie.be/stages/bergbeklimmen-voor-beginners-glocknergruppe-bvkb1601?id=521</a></div>
</div>
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<br /></div>
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Of kan je een mailtje sturen naar: <a href="mailto:bart.smets@telenet.be">bart.smets@telenet.be</a></div>
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<br /></div>
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Inschrijven kan via: <a href="mailto:klimschool@bvkb.be">klimschool@bvkb.be</a></div>
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Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-16082709236286336942015-12-13T12:31:00.003+01:002015-12-13T12:31:53.812+01:00WAFA certificationA week ago I attended a Wilderness Advanced First Aid course by Wilderness Medical Associates and Outward Bound Belgium in Lustin, Belgium. This course really is a must for everyone who goes on extended trips, where help just might not be available, or for everyone who guides groups into the wilderness!<br />
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<br />
During the course we learned how to asses patiënts, how to deal with life-threatning conditions, spinal injuries, wounds, burns, anaphylaxis, hypothermya and much much more.<br />
<br />
This four day course was very practical but intensive, we switched between theory, exercises and simulations all the time. During the last day of the course, there was a multiple choice exam with twenty-five questions, who succeeded received his three-year valid certificate. Next time we can choose to do the three-day recertification or the four-day WAFA to WFR bridge course.<br />
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Photo credits: <a href="http://pietermaes.zenfolio.com/" target="_blank">Pieter Maes Zenfolio</a><br />
Websites: <a href="https://www.wildmed.com/" target="_blank">Wilderness Medical Associates</a> & <a href="http://www.outwardbound.be/" target="_blank">Outward Bound Belgium</a><br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-79643985832081900432015-11-21T19:05:00.000+01:002015-11-21T19:05:50.351+01:00Ice climbing in Iceland!Ice climbing in Iceland! How cool does it get?<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/79s5BD0301o" width="560"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-78907245305017059872015-11-16T18:27:00.001+01:002015-11-16T18:28:17.298+01:00Eclipse<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/edlJ2_924tU" width="560"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-2198093521743502392015-06-15T15:06:00.000+02:002015-06-15T15:10:49.861+02:00Bad to the BoneLooks like a scary climb to me!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/128711279" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe> <br />
<a href="https://vimeo.com/128711279">Bad to the Bone - North West face Mt Deborah, Alaska</a> from <a href="https://vimeo.com/jonathangriffith">Jonathan Griffith</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-47625193170457295922015-04-14T13:05:00.001+02:002015-04-14T13:14:34.373+02:00Review: Cassin Blade Runner<h2>
Cassin</h2>
The roots of this technical equipment date back to 1935 when Riccardo Cassin made the first ascent of the north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (now rated 5.11d). He established his innovative climbing company down valley from C.A.M.P. in 1952. C.A.M.P. purchased the CASSIN brand in 1997 and honors Riccardo’s memory by stamping his name on some of the most technical products in the line including Technical Ice Axes & Crampons, Big Wall/Aid Climbing gear, a selection of Harnesses, and Bouldering gear. Other select products with an established history under the CASSIN brand also carry his name.<br />
<h2>
Description</h2>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZj-_fekgNdMSQwDse3WQcVWnxxmpmeYJN5ngFfeXtJmEaz865lnHy1T_kpkhB6-WNXveXmB08RS4nCmTqKPSX4ZZULhJthL26f8dcGze_d4wkWGCTR7vpqwdduHKXbbuq4AKpw2K1Cl8/s1600/037801-BLADE-RUNNER-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZj-_fekgNdMSQwDse3WQcVWnxxmpmeYJN5ngFfeXtJmEaz865lnHy1T_kpkhB6-WNXveXmB08RS4nCmTqKPSX4ZZULhJthL26f8dcGze_d4wkWGCTR7vpqwdduHKXbbuq4AKpw2K1Cl8/s1600/037801-BLADE-RUNNER-14.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a>The Blade Runner represents a new era in technical ice crampons. A wealth of innovative features <br />
combine to create a crampon that conforms to the ergonomics of modern boots, increases rigidity along the entire length of the crampon without decreasing dexterity or compromising fit, adapts to alpine conditions with a variety of front points and toe bail configurations, and naturally reduces balling with its inverted V-shaped front platform. The patented heel slide integrates the linking bar with the heel piece for better torsional rigidity. This allows the Blade Runner to offer the best of both worlds by combining the power and stability of vertical frame crampons with the precision and ease of adjustment of horizontal frame designs. The entire heel slide is constructed from proprietary Sandvik Nanoflex® steel: an amazingly strong and tough stainless steel that allows for a reduction in the thickness of the frame from 2.75 mm to 1.8 mm, thereby reducing weight while simultaneously increasing strength and providing the right amount of longitudinal flexibility for a precise fit on modern boots with more extreme rocker. The front platform is constructed from traditional chromoly steel alloy to absorb impact energy and maintain solid rigidity under foot. The elimination of connection joints leaves little room for play and reduces much of the flex that can make crampons seem less secure on technical terrain. The sophisticated geometry of the front points interacts with the secondary points on the main frame for easy penetration and superior hold even in the most fickle conditions. Switching the front points between dual and mono, centered or offset, is made easy with the hook and notch system on the rear contact point. The optional snow points convert the Blade Runner into all mountain machines with their beveled design and precise shape and spacing that maximizes purchase in ice and hard snow. Optional semi-automatic toe bails also allow the Blade Runner to be used on boots without rigid toe lugs – a great feature for alpine climbing where the bulky toe lug reduces sensitivity and performance on rock.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Details</h2>
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The most versatile technical ice crampons on the market<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Patented heel slide design integrates the benefits of vertical and horizontal frame crampon designs<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Interchangeable front points are easy to switch from dual to mono, centered or offset<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Optional snow points optimize the crampons for alpine terrain<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>V-shaped chromoly steel front platform offers high rigidity and reduces balling<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The patented heel slide is constructed from proprietary Sandvik Nanoflex® steel for the optimal blend of strength, flex and lightweight<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Asymmetric design follows the contours of modern boots to ensure a more precise fit<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Semi-automatic toe bails allow for use on boots without rigid toe lugs<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Anti-balling plates included<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Available in two sizes for optimal boot fit compatibility<br />
<br />
Points: 13/14<br />
Frame Material: Chromoly Steel / Nanoflex® Steel<br />
Antibott: Included<br />
Binding: Automatic / Semi-Automatic<br />
<br />
<h3>
Weight </h3>
<h3>
Mono-point (vertical)</h3>
Size 1: 1015 g<br />
Size 2: 1030 g<br />
<h3>
Duo-point (horizontal)</h3>
Size 1: 1130 g<br />
Size 2: 1145 g<br />
Srce: CAMP<br />
<br />
<h3>
My opinion</h3>
<h3>
Fit</h3>
The Blade Runners came very close to a perfect fit on my La sportiva Trango Extreme’s. The front part follows the curve of the boot very well. At the back, the crampon has a weird bend between the heel part and the connection bar. It has to fit right in front of the foremost heel lugs of your boots. This tiny detail makes a lot of difference! It makes this crampon a lot more rigid than others, because this piece, together with the front bail, absorbs the impact while kicking the front points. This feature however can be disastrous for the fit on some boots, especially those with less pronounced heel lugs. If the heel of the boot is longer than the crampon heelpiece it can also leave some heel space uncovered by the crampon. This could be an issue, while descending a snow slope. On my boots there was a small part of the heel uncovered, but I never felt insecure while descending. Another difference with standard crampons is the connection bar. The connection bar is made out of one piece of flexible Sandvik Nanoflex steel together with the heel part of the crampon. The first thing you’ll notice is the width of the connection bar. This makes the crampon more laterally rigid and it transfers the force to the heel bend, but it allows the crampon to flex vertically to allow a better fit on modern rockered boots. The second thing you’ll notice is that you can’t slide them in, like classic crampons. This makes them harder to transport, if you don’t want to adjust them every single time you put them on.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1T-uRXvaHGTAcoBixwDjibp68y7mxhTwwBJOrPoF9VjQaXDe1nplmJh2pekv2GQ6qaMe0Nn7zfNZAtQffwnYOk23aNFJVYy6Lm54juB_x5cmHnBrPuKTwCbdveiEFdj-GUoAw6T9xuM/s1600/IMG_2764.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgR1T-uRXvaHGTAcoBixwDjibp68y7mxhTwwBJOrPoF9VjQaXDe1nplmJh2pekv2GQ6qaMe0Nn7zfNZAtQffwnYOk23aNFJVYy6Lm54juB_x5cmHnBrPuKTwCbdveiEFdj-GUoAw6T9xuM/s1600/IMG_2764.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fit of the heel piece</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfqpEnZbSRg5UMqQRcRwF8K8pFIyn5YRCIcfdgbobxEEZ2rpUp4TdAh9kNIHbwVjThyphenhyphenTfgg6ds_MakEOUtTMC7k6Qs1xgdXSMNyLSdbxNehNyhJ8K-u_xhyphenhyphenLwo70HfxoXv3WngreQMEfE/s1600/IMG_2767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfqpEnZbSRg5UMqQRcRwF8K8pFIyn5YRCIcfdgbobxEEZ2rpUp4TdAh9kNIHbwVjThyphenhyphenTfgg6ds_MakEOUtTMC7k6Qs1xgdXSMNyLSdbxNehNyhJ8K-u_xhyphenhyphenLwo70HfxoXv3WngreQMEfE/s1600/IMG_2767.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bended connection bar fits very well on my Trango's</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitWHzTIDMHqyFZRFH021nTdrVLdpddPBg5wIM3GNt0AJEVcidPdTlyltnJ8X2yw4zLPkZUuyeDoIoKBHHEZdv1-puMXm6twBJHKq8dcVHqvOjv0_MOQZe5ilpMVcDHxw1-q_tz8jzVPvA/s1600/IMG_2773.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitWHzTIDMHqyFZRFH021nTdrVLdpddPBg5wIM3GNt0AJEVcidPdTlyltnJ8X2yw4zLPkZUuyeDoIoKBHHEZdv1-puMXm6twBJHKq8dcVHqvOjv0_MOQZe5ilpMVcDHxw1-q_tz8jzVPvA/s1600/IMG_2773.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fit of the front part. Notice the gap between the boot and the front-bail on the inside.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
The binding system is very versatile, you can choose between a semi-automatic and a full-automatic configuration. I tested the full-automatic one. There was a good fit between the toe bail and my boot, but there was a gap between both on the inside of my boots. This means, the crampons will accommodate even more asymmetrical, wider boots. I can’t say much about the heel piece apart from that the piece was sitting very flat against my boots and that it wasn’t very easy to adjust with gloves on. The buckle of the webbing existed out of two rings like on Grivel crampons. They are easy to use with gloves on.<br />
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<h3>
Points</h3>
The crampon counts 13/14 ‘big’ points depending on the configuration. Ten of them are placed vertically and three or four are placed frontally. In addition to those ‘main’ points, there are some cleverly placed secondary points. The biggest are placed underneath the connection bar, the second biggest are two points placed on the proximal side of each replaceable front point and the smallest are some serrations sticking out of the anti-balling plates in the center of the front part of the crampon. They are very useful to keep grip while stepping onto cauliflower ice. <br />
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The frontal points are placed in a very clever way. You can switch the front points between snow points or ice points; you can place them centered or offset, dual or mono. This makes them very versatile in all sorts of terrain. I climbed with them in mono-point configuration and in this position, the small secondary points were visible and I wondered how they would work on ice and rock. Apparently the small points did a good job in stabilizing the crampon while climbing ice (I guess they’ll also prevent the mono-point from slicing through névé) and they didn’t interfere with the rock while dry-tooling, something where I was afraid of. When the crampons are in dual-point configuration, the secondary points are flat against the removable points, so they don’t interfere anymore.<br />
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<h3>
Anti-balling plates</h3>
I never noticed any balling under the crampons. There are solid anti-balling plates in place on the crampon and the shape/material of the crampon can reduce the balling effect as well. CAMP says that the front piece of the crampon is V-shaped to reduce the balling; I can add that the stainless steel back part sheds the snow as well, because the snow doesn’t stick as much to stainless compared to chromolly steel.<br />
<h3>
Weight</h3>
The Blade Runner weighs just a little more than one of its closest competitors, the Petzl Lynx (1080g; duo-point), but the Blade Runner is a better crampon on ice for sure, because it is more rigid and its ability to keep grip on cauliflower ice. It is probably also a better snow crampon, because of the interchangeable horizontal front points. The trade-off is however that it is less compact to transport, it just might fit not as much boots as the Lynx and I believe the extendable front points of the Lynx make them just a little better in dry-tooling.<br />
<h2>
Conclusion</h2>
If you want one crampon to do it all, this just might be something for you. A bit more versatile than the Petzl Lynx, but also a little heavier and less compact. Make sure you try them on your boots before you buy them!<br />
<h3>
Positive</h3>
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Versatile<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Rigid<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Great on cauliflower ice<br />
<h3>
Negative</h3>
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pretty heavy<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hard to fit on some boots<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-4191216859515333232015-03-16T20:37:00.000+01:002015-03-17T17:36:03.776+01:00Review: Cassin X-dream<h2>
Cassin</h2>
The roots of this technical equipment date back to 1935 when Riccardo Cassin made the first ascent of the north face of the Cima Ovest di Lavaredo (now rated 5.11d). He established his innovative climbing company down valley from C.A.M.P. in 1952. C.A.M.P. purchased the CASSIN brand in 1997 and honors Riccardo’s memory by stamping his name on some of the most technical products in the line including Technical Ice Axes & Crampons, Big Wall/Aid Climbing gear, a selection of Harnesses, and Bouldering gear. Other select products with an established history under the CASSIN brand also carry his name.<br />
<br />
<h2>
Description</h2>
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<a href="http://www.camp-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/3051-X-DREAM-14.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://www.camp-usa.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/3051-X-DREAM-14.jpg" height="320" width="320" /></a></div>
The X-Dream combines two tools in one – a fully optimized tool for technical ice and an aggressive<br />
dry tooling machine. This amazing ice axe not only features three different T rated picks for various terrain, but it also incorporates a patented adjustment system in the ergonomic handle to fine tune the swing and torque even further. A quick turn of the Allen bolt above the grip allows the tool to be switched between Dry and Ice positions by changing the angle of the handle in relation to the angle of the pick. In the Dry position, the handle kicks upward for a more down and out pull. The Ice position drops the handle for a more natural swing. Climbers can further refine the X-Dream with micro-adjustable trigger finger ledges (choose from two inserts – the X-Finger Small or the X-Finger Large – that can be flipped over to adjust the position) and the X-Rest insert which adjusts the overall height of the handle. All three picks feature the refined beak and tooth configuration CASSIN tools are known for. They are designed to provide solid sticks with minimal penetration making them the perfect choice for brittle ice and technical mixed terrain. The Ice pick brings the tip 6 mm closer to the handle for performance similar to the popular X-All Mountain tool. It also features a small hammer that adds the perfect amount of head weight for thin and brittle ice. The Race pick features a sharp beak for grappling with rock along with more aggressive teeth both on the underside and topside of the pick. The Mixed pick is a blend between the two with similar angles to the Ice pick but only a small hammer plate and teeth reaching further down the shaft like the Race pick.<br />
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<br />
<h3>
Details</h3>
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Hyper light, perfectly balanced, fully featured tool for technical dry, mixed and ice climbing<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Ergonomic handle with patented adjustment system to change between Dry and Ice angles<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>The handle is constructed from extreme cold resistant polymer laid over the hot-forged aluminum alloy spine<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>3 different picks (Mixte supplied as standard, Ice and Race can be purchased separately) provide further refinement for different styles of climbing<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Micro-adjustable trigger finger ledges and X-Rest insert adjust the overall height and size of the handle<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X-Trigger pommel attaches to the shaft for a third ledge<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>X-Grip 2 included<br />
<br />
<h4>
Weight</h4>
600g<br />
<br />
Srce: CAMP<br />
<br />
<br />
<h2>
My opinion</h2>
<i>(Note: the Cassin X-dreams were provided to me by the K2 profshop for testing purposes. This didn’t influence my opinion in any way!)</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<br />
<h3>
Picks</h3>
All the picks available for the X-dream are T-rated. This is very confidence inspiring, because they look pretty narrow and there are some holes cut out for weight reduction. It is also mandatory for mixed climbing, dry tooling and competitions to reduce the chance of bending or even breaking a pick while torqueing the tools.<br />
<br />
I also noticed that the picks seemed to hold there edge very well.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Ice pick</h4>
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I really liked the way the picks stick from the first hit, without shattering too much ice. They really <br />
cut the ice like a knife through butter. This is probably because of the tapering of the picks. The downside of this is that they can sink down deep into soft ice, what makes them very hard to remove. Especially when the big spike on the underside of the pick gets into the ice or when the serrations on the head contact an ice curtain.<br />
I’m not sure why they are in place on an ice pick anyway. I suppose, the big spike secures the blade while hooking between icicles and behind pillars and the serrations on the head are for torqueing the axe. But then again, I’ve never experienced the need for anything like that while ice climbing. In my opinion, those extra teeth are more useful for dry tooling or mixed climbing.<br />
<br />
I also used this pick for some dry tooling and I was very pleased with the first tooth, who is a little downturned and far enough from the second tooth. It felt very secure, even while matching hands and pivoting the tools. I found the serrations on the head of the tool very useful, while torqueing the tools. The big spike on the underside came in handy while hooking over big holds. It felt more secure.<br />
<br />
Although I’ve never used them for hammering a piton I found the hammer very useful, because it places some more weight into the head of the axe, what makes for a better swing. But I think there is still room for improvement… I’d suggest Cassin to take off the hammer and to put the same weight in front of the head for less vibration of the pick and an even better swing with less moment force when the pick hits the ice. This will reduce the chance of the pick bouncing off while hitting a bulge of hard ice.<br />
<br />
In addition to the extra weight the hammer brings to the head, it also makes it possible to use the tool into the alpine.<br />
<br />
<h4>
Mixte pick</h4>
<i>Note: I have not used this pick in the field, but I’ll compare it with the ice pick by its few differences.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
The mixed pick is similar to the ice pick, but there are a few adaptations for dry tooling and mixed<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIV3NZoT0XOY3BTwg7K_N3h4frpHipliJyJF46XBgzzegubuFb07L9CbnmHtvYmqfrBI-bXrBvAjx161IAtsiEbt6Q70vmMq71-C5iAJ2pnOFUdIEXOvX_KFhJABHwJkaDn-vAjBY1LI/s1600/IMG_2728.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoIV3NZoT0XOY3BTwg7K_N3h4frpHipliJyJF46XBgzzegubuFb07L9CbnmHtvYmqfrBI-bXrBvAjx161IAtsiEbt6Q70vmMq71-C5iAJ2pnOFUdIEXOvX_KFhJABHwJkaDn-vAjBY1LI/s1600/IMG_2728.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a>climbing. First, the serrations on the head reach further down the head. This makes the axe even better for torqueing, but worse for ice climbing.<br />
<br />
Second, they have more cut-outs and no real hammer for weight reduction. Since the pick is going to be used more on rock, there is less need for extra weight in the head. The hammer is removed, but there is still some metal protruding at the back of the head. I recon it is (almost) impossible to hammer a piton with it, without smashing the head. Maybe it is more useful to pommel one axe into an ice- or frozen turf-filled crack with the other one.<br />
<br />
Third, the pick comes down lower towards the shaft for better hooking around or over holds.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMF-KJi8UfDdyIn2CzZX7mYqmJ5cqbTLahL0ITC2_KeGl7tdmgRQVm8NgOGrwkDGNfJZau0q2de93pKh7dtJluL5iyOmGofGh3qNQ6bA8p6MZTJWPk_2YmWKB_-WMY7kTyUQ757tR-MJc/s1600/IMG_2731.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjMF-KJi8UfDdyIn2CzZX7mYqmJ5cqbTLahL0ITC2_KeGl7tdmgRQVm8NgOGrwkDGNfJZau0q2de93pKh7dtJluL5iyOmGofGh3qNQ6bA8p6MZTJWPk_2YmWKB_-WMY7kTyUQ757tR-MJc/s1600/IMG_2731.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIX4pjR5cEtdLpjVDymjVgS_6IkWMHTc-rTI0kpQfoiveidLBqXgAM6Y9QTbzKEv_eC21L1PnS2GYliy9rhzByhoOMEAziax2Rvrvqx3kLpX5NgHyxuSghax4g__pg-iC8cmB5XYsvU_A/s1600/IMG_2730.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiIX4pjR5cEtdLpjVDymjVgS_6IkWMHTc-rTI0kpQfoiveidLBqXgAM6Y9QTbzKEv_eC21L1PnS2GYliy9rhzByhoOMEAziax2Rvrvqx3kLpX5NgHyxuSghax4g__pg-iC8cmB5XYsvU_A/s1600/IMG_2730.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Comparison between the ice pick (bloted on the tool) and the mixed pick</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<h4>
Comp pick</h4>
<i>Note: I have not used this pick in the field.</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
This pick is the most radical in the X-dream arsenal. The serrations underneath are bigger and more aggressively angled towards the back for even more secure pick placements, the tip is even more downturned, the hammer is totally removed, the head is even more cut-out and the teeth on top are almost running to the tip of the pick! Great blade for extreme dry-tooling, but not very useful on pure ice.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Shaft</h3>
Although I haven’t noticed it while ice climbing the shaft flexes a lot even compared to the Nomic, which already has some flex in its shaft. It actually felt pretty weird while dry tooling and it might affect the performance of the tool slightly, especially on very tiny edges.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Handle</h3>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NIQrtUUg89ej8evo-2ub5nbqvuiaHUvSz3S7MSirduoGj4Nk3oFJBdL6eWFIQi23K0M5q6Xk-rWY4Mx_Zcu7OOW2GBDDezVRes3NEEcAo3BmVGFQHEXqTpA4b9ckNbvr8Js2LtAJpN8/s1600/IMG_2720.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9NIQrtUUg89ej8evo-2ub5nbqvuiaHUvSz3S7MSirduoGj4Nk3oFJBdL6eWFIQi23K0M5q6Xk-rWY4Mx_Zcu7OOW2GBDDezVRes3NEEcAo3BmVGFQHEXqTpA4b9ckNbvr8Js2LtAJpN8/s1600/IMG_2720.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The handle in the ice-setting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
In the ice-setting, the swing of the tool felt very natural. It solves the problem of the Ergo tools, whose handle is almost parallel to its pick what makes it awkward to swing in ice. The swing felt more like a Nomic, but with a lower center of gravity. For dry-tooling on some vertical to slight overhanging walls, I’d suggest you use the handle in the ice setting, because there is almost no pick shift, while matching with the second grip.<br />
<br />
In the dry-setting the handle became almost parallel to the pick, more like the Ergo’s. This makes the X-dream a great tool for overhanging dry-tooling. It makes it easier to hold onto the tool longer, because it straightens the wrist. The trade-off for this is a greater pick-shift while matching hands, because of the greater difference in <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjn0CxsGbdnXMqNhTir6c707aFzMHz_qHH43pjGFwphn_JRVZIv6_YWK3K25bAWRnqaBfM_SOO97nT9Kk_HOtj7wY-vgVMHRKqzeKpZ9JKCnqi_-CzlYnWP4EPYpcP8ad94Rm6LMlbJo8/s1600/IMG_2735.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgjn0CxsGbdnXMqNhTir6c707aFzMHz_qHH43pjGFwphn_JRVZIv6_YWK3K25bAWRnqaBfM_SOO97nT9Kk_HOtj7wY-vgVMHRKqzeKpZ9JKCnqi_-CzlYnWP4EPYpcP8ad94Rm6LMlbJo8/s1600/IMG_2735.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the full-strength hole in the handle and <br />
the serrations underneath the handle.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
angle between the first and the second grip.<br />
<br />
Overall the handle is very comfy and it is possible to customize it with a variety of different accessories. It provokes a comfortable, relaxed hand position.<br />
<br />
The handle is also equipped with a serrated pommel and second hand rest. This protects the handle from getting smashed-up against the ice or rock. If you like to use the tool into the alpine, the serrations are too small to give you any grip on snow, but CAMP announced a replacement handle for fall 2015 with a big spike to satisfy the alpine climbers. If you are an alpine climber or if you like some multi-pitch ice climbing, you may want a place to clip your tethers to… It is possible to clip a BD spinner leash through the hole in the handle, but it will be more comfy to put some cord trough to clip them to. There will be a hole into the spike of the new handles, so you can use them for clipping your leashes as well, I guess.<br />
<br />
So, all in all it’s a great handle, but I noticed something disturbing! On one of the axes, the bolt that connects the handle to the shaft loosened very easily even after I retightened the bolt. This created some movement between the handle and the rest of the axe. Although it was not a safety issue by any means, it felt not very reassuring while climbing.<br />
The second handle felt comfortable. The pinky-rest is the upper part of the first handle and Cassin added some skateboard-style grip-tape and it did the job.<br />
<br />
The third grip consists of a removable pinky-rest and it is clamped around the shaft. I found it particularly useful in ice and snow. In ice because it makes it easier to reach higher or to match hands in a traverse. In snow, I noticed that this grip kept my hands out of the snow, while Ueli Stecking some firn snow. However the downside of the third hand rest is that you can easily hit it if you take a swing over a bulge. It happened to me a few times and it turned sideways once. I also found the hand rest less useful while dry-tooling, because it creates a lot of pick shift, so use it on good holds only!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5X36eyyDe3JKw5FhGTzcpNlnRvSNIopRHoRQRM7B0qYAyOxWVJ27H99ELzilpFzRrrGIu61G6b8ZYs6cqvnxYC36AG_Gmzbj-X4C6wOa8X87cMTIgBY9FyGNzY1KSNMy8OcdLjroAH0/s1600/IMG_2733.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjS5X36eyyDe3JKw5FhGTzcpNlnRvSNIopRHoRQRM7B0qYAyOxWVJ27H99ELzilpFzRrrGIu61G6b8ZYs6cqvnxYC36AG_Gmzbj-X4C6wOa8X87cMTIgBY9FyGNzY1KSNMy8OcdLjroAH0/s1600/IMG_2733.JPG" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Handle customisation accessories</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdShTEPyqIVPdyRFUDxkgkEKFMn4GBTBNEy1XQAwORjeG8rF8MELpme_Fa8Tk_zJaTy6gU5g1BEo7KxQt8XCxGVyTlyd8ztQMrEFL6BgJIPCZBn4PxNmgFxJ8XAV-V-_I0wasJMMHKHE/s1600/IMG_2738.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirdShTEPyqIVPdyRFUDxkgkEKFMn4GBTBNEy1XQAwORjeG8rF8MELpme_Fa8Tk_zJaTy6gU5g1BEo7KxQt8XCxGVyTlyd8ztQMrEFL6BgJIPCZBn4PxNmgFxJ8XAV-V-_I0wasJMMHKHE/s1600/IMG_2738.JPG" height="213" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Removable hand-rest. Just below, you can see a part from the grip-tape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<h2>
Conclusion</h2>
The X-dream is a great all-round tool for steep ice, mixed climbing and dry-tooling. It bridges the gap between pure dry-tooling axes like the Ergo and the more ice-oriented tools like the Nomic. It is in a lot of aspects a better ice tool as the Nomic, one of its biggest competitors, but it has its flaws. I’d like a stiffer shaft, a clean ice pick without serrations on the head, without the big tooth and a more secure way to attach the handle.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Positive</h3>
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Great swing and sticks<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Modular handle<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Multi-functional<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Lightweight<br />
<br />
<h3>
Negative</h3>
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Flexible shaft<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Pick can get stuck into the ice<br />
•<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space: pre;"> </span>Handle-shaft connection can loosen<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUy6JaX9XbQhyphenhyphenUN5quvjfVAdHueqKZlNQvzK1maSBJTbzpuSlJxoYXOrL7andevZiAQ7-LEOQr4Grk4egwNenYUeqtyqzT7wpk46WarImjhmsmYG_r8lM6JMQlkxC6mdnPynNXdO_IGc/s1600/10958340_723682184393844_8287078519544067862_n+(1).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnUy6JaX9XbQhyphenhyphenUN5quvjfVAdHueqKZlNQvzK1maSBJTbzpuSlJxoYXOrL7andevZiAQ7-LEOQr4Grk4egwNenYUeqtyqzT7wpk46WarImjhmsmYG_r8lM6JMQlkxC6mdnPynNXdO_IGc/s1600/10958340_723682184393844_8287078519544067862_n+(1).jpg" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: "Cambria","serif"; font-size: 11.0pt; line-height: 115%; mso-ansi-language: NL-BE; mso-ascii-theme-font: major-latin; mso-bidi-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-bidi-theme-font: major-bidi; mso-fareast-font-family: "Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: major-fareast; mso-hansi-theme-font: major-latin;">Ice climbing in Rjukan, Norway ©Steven De Decker</span></td></tr>
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<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-54779679568664050332015-03-16T18:44:00.002+01:002015-03-28T16:28:22.875+01:00First time alpine climbing with Daan<div class="MsoNormal">
<i>This is a little write-up from Daan Nijs. Last summer I took him alpine climbing for the first time. I might have taken him outside of his comfort zone, I guess...</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<span lang="EN-GB">Hi
everyone,<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Let me
first introduce myself. My name is Daan, I met Bart last year at Don Bosco
Wilrijk at the rope-access course. Me and Bart got along very well right from
the start of the course. Bart and I share the same love for the mountains and
climbing, though he is much better at it than I am. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">Last summer
Bart and I went to Chamonix together. It was my first time in Chamonix and my
first real experience as a mountaineer. Bart was planning on staying for two months, but because I had to work, I only had one week to climb. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">The first
week of July we drove from Belgium to Chamonix. Once in Chamonix we went to this
cosy camping full of climbers. We arrived at the camping in the late afternoon.
The same day we went to town to get the last supplies we needed to go climbing.
The next morning we took the Flégère cable car to the Aiguilles Rouges. Here
we wanted to climb 'La Chapelle de la Glière'. An alpine style rock climb with a beautiful ‘Razor’ pitch. After my first lead on this
route, little experience with nuts and friends, multi-</span>pitch routes and a first
experience of terrible rope drag I suffered from a weird feeling where it was
very hard for me to go on, better known as fear. So for the upcoming pitches
Bart took the lead. We continued on the route with a break after the sixth
pitch. After another demotivating confrontation with a chamois who apparently
could make it to his point with ease, we continued to the top of the route.
After a few minutes of enjoyment on the summit, I just realised we were only
halfway and still had a small journey ahead of us. It was already late but we
still wanted to make it to the last cable cart to Chamonix. We didn’t make it
though. On the way down, which should have been an easy walk we stumbled upon a
wall of snow that was blocking the path. But no worries, on the right of the
path we found a belay point where we could rappel down to a ledge from where we
could go down to the cable cart. At least that was the plan. Once on the ledge,
we discovered that is was impossible to go down through a field of snow without
crampons. When we discovered it was impossible to go down through the snow, we
already pulled down the rope, so returning wasn’t an option either. We started
to look around for an alternative route to go down. At first we couldn’t find a
way down, but then it happened. I saw a small piece of paper. I picked it up,
and saw it was a page from the guidebook of the wall we were on. Was this luck or
was there something up above guarding us? Who knows. Anyway, we found a rappel
route and got down just before it went all dark. Luckily for us, we brought our
tent, so we camped near the lift. The next morning we took the first bin and
went down. This first climb was already a great adventure, although the real
adventure still had to come.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">When we
arrived back in Chamonix, we went to the tourist-office to check the weather forecast. We
decided to take the cable car of the Aiguille du Midi. We went to buy the food we would need to
stay up for 2 days and we left with the last cart. Once up at the station, we
prepared to get on the glacier and pitch our tent between two or three other
tents. There we ate something and went to bed. We had to get up very early to
leave on our climb. We wanted to climb the Aiguille d’Entrèves. A route which is
AD- according to Camptocamp but back then I thought it was PD. This was going
to be my first alpine climb. I was very
excited. The next morning was painfully early. We left as the sun touched the
horizon for the first part of the climb, a seven kilometre walk to the start of
the route. It didn’t took long before I realised that I hadn’t eaten enough.
When we arrived at the start of the route, I felt pretty empty inside. I ate
some candy bars which gave me energy to go on. We started the climb, it was
easy terrain to climb and I really enjoyed it. The view was amazing but when we
were half way, the weather changed. It became very clouded and it started to
snow. The wind started to pick up, A snowstorm was coming. And yes, a few minutes
later the weather was terrible, but because we passed the point of no return,
we pushed forward. After this climb we still had to walk back. The trail was
snowed in and we couldn’t see the crevasses. At that point we realised why a good preparation is mandatory, which we hadn’t at that point.
We pushed on and when we descended more, the visibility became better and we could
see the trails again. On the way back I was completely out of energy. I tried
to go on and pushed as hard as I could. I fell a few times, but Bart helped me
to push on. After a serious struggle to get my empty body back to the location
where we left our tent, I fell down in the hole where we put our tent last
night. There we decided to put up the tent again because of my empty body and
upcoming bad weather. <o:p></o:p></span><br />
<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKDBYprygw1gJ05baUZAkeKKH40HBJkJZG5ryUSTPfOo2H4tz1NSuTX2yq3Pkk46hTxdhXZl67aVY913VPGWVjX6yVtOuNw_NaeKX3Km5UcdxX4-_wRGUfHzWa2r9OhKpeGlQkH62aAeg/s1600/IMG_1605.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKDBYprygw1gJ05baUZAkeKKH40HBJkJZG5ryUSTPfOo2H4tz1NSuTX2yq3Pkk46hTxdhXZl67aVY913VPGWVjX6yVtOuNw_NaeKX3Km5UcdxX4-_wRGUfHzWa2r9OhKpeGlQkH62aAeg/s1600/IMG_1605.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daan on the Col du Midi</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span>
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHTj_N06ii5fv8RKbfElApwX0fSdw-Dq4POpcvbDGzoXuG4NncQLONmVS8oB0PXqpnClPqPMG-SSsnAUXPbYu8UjNiwffokEJ56_fk1yF42X1-Krsm9Qg287t8dB8VM3emHxemuXsc-OY/s1600/IMG_1621.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiHTj_N06ii5fv8RKbfElApwX0fSdw-Dq4POpcvbDGzoXuG4NncQLONmVS8oB0PXqpnClPqPMG-SSsnAUXPbYu8UjNiwffokEJ56_fk1yF42X1-Krsm9Qg287t8dB8VM3emHxemuXsc-OY/s1600/IMG_1621.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On our way to the Aigulle d' Entrèves, the third mountain from the left.</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrT9F0PwO97a4fw5LOAVfaObiUUIjmWN4K2aCqt6709HAcoH2VHMICBnvZxy_q-iRzF-K5kQoj7dvTllaYxiNyiiFLvRCuhuxkSN8mtih8JpiDmScYhMiip4D0aQlL_RtFtAc9ucnHKns/s1600/IMG_1640.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrT9F0PwO97a4fw5LOAVfaObiUUIjmWN4K2aCqt6709HAcoH2VHMICBnvZxy_q-iRzF-K5kQoj7dvTllaYxiNyiiFLvRCuhuxkSN8mtih8JpiDmScYhMiip4D0aQlL_RtFtAc9ucnHKns/s1600/IMG_1640.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">On the ridge</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu5fIOuHyu3syl3Ncjqc4lP8_KphY4gcksJzEPOBLHABMZAJl9b3U-B_S4oBFphy-lDPTagn2r19bIdUIcaRkLYSkTsyjp6xY4hBN7a8qwSoPKhQi67g0_u2pacNzll33I0XDByGyB-bY/s1600/IMG_1646.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgu5fIOuHyu3syl3Ncjqc4lP8_KphY4gcksJzEPOBLHABMZAJl9b3U-B_S4oBFphy-lDPTagn2r19bIdUIcaRkLYSkTsyjp6xY4hBN7a8qwSoPKhQi67g0_u2pacNzll33I0XDByGyB-bY/s1600/IMG_1646.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful climbing on the ridge, just before the weather turned foul.</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDTtG_DuhAbalCgmndNwLlZaQ03iN-74VGynWfdYPTS-lkg2jacbuGusvuY98OOC4Qvripicf3RiGZaAg7Q3Vo2EXkl9fLTdAIqivJwYrzSNEO_vR7jfDVq1q0mRTylJn-wxt2NK4HaM/s1600/IMG_1649.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWDTtG_DuhAbalCgmndNwLlZaQ03iN-74VGynWfdYPTS-lkg2jacbuGusvuY98OOC4Qvripicf3RiGZaAg7Q3Vo2EXkl9fLTdAIqivJwYrzSNEO_vR7jfDVq1q0mRTylJn-wxt2NK4HaM/s1600/IMG_1649.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Daan climbing the ridge in less than ideal conditions.</td></tr>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">When we got
in our tent, a snowstorm blew over. We had to stay in the tent for the next
sixteen hours. These where some scary hours. The wind was blowing down on our
tent which was only anchored with our two piolets and two ski poles. After these
hours, we decided to go to the lift. The last push to the finish line. It was
still much further than anticipated. Then we arrived at the last ridge to the
Midi lift. On this last ridge, I almost fell down because my crampons where
stuck in my pants (classic). Luckily I could plant my piolet in the snow, which
saved me. When we arrived at the lift station, I was very relieved. Here there
were the usual Asian tourists who were taking pictures of every mountaineer
they could get an eye on. After some waiting, we finally could go down. The
first thing we did, was going to the ‘Midnight’. A place with delicious
hamburgers. After that we went for a drink and then to the camping where we
relaxed after our adventure. That day we also met an Australian guy who was
also named Daan, who was completely amazed by the fact that he met another
person with the same name.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">The next
day we wanted to climb a multi-pitch route somewhere further down the valley,
but on our way up, we realised we forgot our water. So we returned to get some
water but by the time we got back, we were to tired (read lazy) to go back up,
Also the weather was changing and it was already getting to late. So we went
bouldering for a while, which we grew tired of pretty fast, although it was fun in the
beginning. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
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<span lang="EN-GB"><br /></span></div>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-GB">The next
day was my last day in Chamonix, but we couldn’t do a lot because of bad
weather, so it became a last lazy day. The next morning I left Bart in Chamonix
and drove home on a boring ten hour drive. It was a great week where I learned a lot and did awesome things, I hope
I can repeat this, next summer but then with better weather.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-17862280581416083552015-01-15T10:59:00.000+01:002015-01-15T19:32:40.520+01:00Dawn Wall free climbed!They did it! Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson did the first free climb of the Dawn Wall!<br />
<br />
<a href="http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/01/150114-climbing-yosemite-caldwell-jorgeson-capitan/" target="_blank">http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2015/01/150114-climbing-yosemite-caldwell-jorgeson-capitan/</a><br />
<br />
<a href="http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/2015/01/14/how-the-yosemite-climbers-dawn-wall-first-free-ascent-has-pushed-the-sport-forward/" target="_blank">http://adventureblog.nationalgeographic.com/2015/01/14/how-the-yosemite-climbers-dawn-wall-first-free-ascent-has-pushed-the-sport-forward/</a>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-4465803629575850822015-01-08T16:41:00.000+01:002015-01-08T16:41:48.999+01:00La sportiva G2 SMThis looks very promissing!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/HF4-mmEvrFU" width="560"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-80897183693325936262014-12-26T17:47:00.000+01:002015-03-10T15:34:56.213+01:00My 2014 (Part 1)It has been a long time since I' ve written my last report, so to make it up to you I'll write a resume of everything what happened last year climbingwise.<br />
<br />
First I started a rope-access training and I started working parttime at CRI rope-access, where I got my IRATA level 1 certificate. Here is a little film of our rope-access training with Don Bosco Wilrijk, on a training day in the new @-height trainingcenter.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/WjDln5Slqfo" width="560"></iframe>
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<h3>
</h3>
<h3>
March 2014</h3>
<div>
In March, me and Daan (a rope-access trainee as well) went to Ettringen (Germany) for some crack- and tradclimbing. Good times!</div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLQvbOhAwkjkEFL9JxMOT3DfhnenyFc428JMKOjChCBGjbh0xNPqiOusOmnc_FBWHeSrw6quuvdFpbJU6jowsde0EBWRyTBK3eFxRMTXHoXhsbqMoSET-JB1n1EcLdf993oZsVgkIJYng/s1600/IMG_1233.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLQvbOhAwkjkEFL9JxMOT3DfhnenyFc428JMKOjChCBGjbh0xNPqiOusOmnc_FBWHeSrw6quuvdFpbJU6jowsde0EBWRyTBK3eFxRMTXHoXhsbqMoSET-JB1n1EcLdf993oZsVgkIJYng/s1600/IMG_1233.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"True romance" 6b (don't mind the rope behind the leg, there wasn't any pro yet) ©Daan Nijs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfanuh9wmUd3T3H_4_Yi-i_tlFp3N2Ygfgi30ei008MUJzScR2gE9_gpnZhNEdmW1RXVqbFbU1nwEnhAUiBY51yOPhOD6W81AK5de8mDfbC3M5N6T81fhSl8hPcGVghAQLCFDnlygTY0E/s1600/IMG_1209.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfanuh9wmUd3T3H_4_Yi-i_tlFp3N2Ygfgi30ei008MUJzScR2gE9_gpnZhNEdmW1RXVqbFbU1nwEnhAUiBY51yOPhOD6W81AK5de8mDfbC3M5N6T81fhSl8hPcGVghAQLCFDnlygTY0E/s1600/IMG_1209.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXd_NiNybBKDkECAl7_TSqPO5Q4W9tSj2QHrQpcgVOaip3ux41HQyaVEbvvRfuABtFkmZyqwcO7c9Orj6lsSOhJGSftXgwMJYP6aWuidhzFSpwlP8eajfye1wOypvyRX9tjT7xPj7vac/s1600/IMG_1218.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCXd_NiNybBKDkECAl7_TSqPO5Q4W9tSj2QHrQpcgVOaip3ux41HQyaVEbvvRfuABtFkmZyqwcO7c9Orj6lsSOhJGSftXgwMJYP6aWuidhzFSpwlP8eajfye1wOypvyRX9tjT7xPj7vac/s1600/IMG_1218.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Fissure" 6b ©Daan Nijs</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbAhxbhnqEmpyk1Qp4n4BeSLMX43Ru1V7-ck715aMCbIipKbplhweNcXYJBSgivtHJKMTmsPh6BQbmyKupA-z5Aw0yRYr5Z4aSMyKMiD_ylWhn7hjBgCBurI1zYz2UEg9L7l35JBv2Ys/s1600/IMG_1226.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzbAhxbhnqEmpyk1Qp4n4BeSLMX43Ru1V7-ck715aMCbIipKbplhweNcXYJBSgivtHJKMTmsPh6BQbmyKupA-z5Aw0yRYr5Z4aSMyKMiD_ylWhn7hjBgCBurI1zYz2UEg9L7l35JBv2Ys/s1600/IMG_1226.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<h3>
April 2014</h3>
During springtime I went on a ski-touring course in Switzerland with mountain-guide Helmuth Van Pottelbergh. We learned all the necessary techniques for alpine touring; spitzenkehren, off-piste skiing, glacier rescue, avalanche safety,... We had a lot of fun and the conditions were just perfect!<br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg265a_12Cg1Qa4k0H4IadNHhm2_gyCXrhzttVas1fT5NeAYRKvovHBMAbHV3yoUFJU5kvCJz0EAKqhnPCgfZfE1biHWMQ8g1RX34BmeY551IoKyZVWR6C1TSkX9w7LCpEPMoXIPkD9Q_w/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(7).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg265a_12Cg1Qa4k0H4IadNHhm2_gyCXrhzttVas1fT5NeAYRKvovHBMAbHV3yoUFJU5kvCJz0EAKqhnPCgfZfE1biHWMQ8g1RX34BmeY551IoKyZVWR6C1TSkX9w7LCpEPMoXIPkD9Q_w/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(7).JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Spitzenkehren! ©Helmuth<br />
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<o:p></o:p></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdftWinjCFPwKPwBadU-BUymNoIBWvUgYm2lKHJ0Ab5M9EW0Ngow_RunNKimaGfuvHI5ZYfI0K_IlnhsbExJvtfZG-km4sHq1xnJZ0oXbefhMCGn4LqymIAxvOgEIp9sbqaRpzgxK60dg/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(9).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdftWinjCFPwKPwBadU-BUymNoIBWvUgYm2lKHJ0Ab5M9EW0Ngow_RunNKimaGfuvHI5ZYfI0K_IlnhsbExJvtfZG-km4sHq1xnJZ0oXbefhMCGn4LqymIAxvOgEIp9sbqaRpzgxK60dg/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(9).JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Great weather, uh?! Exept one day! ©Helmuth</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhitiJGl2GYJJn3CjfOvnPVHUgKjwO4hwO32pUULqCimnLorvvnDR9z2QMHoSOwcX4WLe-v2tDAlm00SKkEYQYpEFLhoVuefhdoDxSODYo9wRSWXR9HpvN6iowW-SAENVqnm0JIaMb8lCQ/s1600/IMG_1239.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhitiJGl2GYJJn3CjfOvnPVHUgKjwO4hwO32pUULqCimnLorvvnDR9z2QMHoSOwcX4WLe-v2tDAlm00SKkEYQYpEFLhoVuefhdoDxSODYo9wRSWXR9HpvN6iowW-SAENVqnm0JIaMb8lCQ/s1600/IMG_1239.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Checking the snow conditions</td></tr>
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</div>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeHE2nR8ljPT9S_f0CKWz_Z8orOblWY6qRuGamDi9KgP_eUdh_HfqBe5GUsn5Gq0K6tOV2anX8tY7OCRQkpAd7s-H441TKqHz7dCitexMriSo_2y7UQoHVkifC6clizSrlMDQjUf98QU/s1600/IMG_1293.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggeHE2nR8ljPT9S_f0CKWz_Z8orOblWY6qRuGamDi9KgP_eUdh_HfqBe5GUsn5Gq0K6tOV2anX8tY7OCRQkpAd7s-H441TKqHz7dCitexMriSo_2y7UQoHVkifC6clizSrlMDQjUf98QU/s1600/IMG_1293.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Planning our trip for the next day (Cab. des Aig. Rouges)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHFkS_mE1iQ4WdQ9wwNOXI9HJOKPmTrSIAhWwKGrG8g1HZrAbRck4IspAo2HT4CCLi6EROnzB0HdDuo1jPTDEpHawVtWItsS2YwAnKxtnqhigjUMUIs_iRojtRfg-C7R5xhYDf_65U_k/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(54).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZHFkS_mE1iQ4WdQ9wwNOXI9HJOKPmTrSIAhWwKGrG8g1HZrAbRck4IspAo2HT4CCLi6EROnzB0HdDuo1jPTDEpHawVtWItsS2YwAnKxtnqhigjUMUIs_iRojtRfg-C7R5xhYDf_65U_k/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(54).JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">©Helmuth</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISQcmd3aA-qwvTXeqDfsgAPGt50V2tKg_pbmRauxoGX2fjEO9oS2txiqgk8cmSqa_1ZSMlIvJGtoSx2uLDvgV8W-1_QD9eLDhmGim6stDUaMZhyphenhyphenT7Nmg1l-ttaVL7fuPqCbEkLtw8_i4/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(77).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhISQcmd3aA-qwvTXeqDfsgAPGt50V2tKg_pbmRauxoGX2fjEO9oS2txiqgk8cmSqa_1ZSMlIvJGtoSx2uLDvgV8W-1_QD9eLDhmGim6stDUaMZhyphenhyphenT7Nmg1l-ttaVL7fuPqCbEkLtw8_i4/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(77).JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Some powderturns ©Helmuth</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg97za-wpBZrsk6h690dOrmOI9AOt35dPkcamgzF8vXUFLSzRDYhTK6qip8M-VCDBYI770Arr9FYZ4vwDhpA9lgNuldF5al7FX3u0ScPHnLnKIkGK-3uQUzM86k3wflTebkcQGubBOhO3A/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(87).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg97za-wpBZrsk6h690dOrmOI9AOt35dPkcamgzF8vXUFLSzRDYhTK6qip8M-VCDBYI770Arr9FYZ4vwDhpA9lgNuldF5al7FX3u0ScPHnLnKIkGK-3uQUzM86k3wflTebkcQGubBOhO3A/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(87).JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Near the summit of the Pointe de Vouasson. What a view! ©Helmuth</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgwLxvKAT6ctdWzFWYPMOinGtGAIq0nz4ZTJstn5Rezn5nmiXDub9b1WkVuHdYNd5xvOFg5jD4zfayXDdmSmp78bpmFPuERvjAUqmNkUmCRnIF1Wvg3u1vjS6_kCv0TkmgRpN-p1l_fk/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(108).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhgwLxvKAT6ctdWzFWYPMOinGtGAIq0nz4ZTJstn5Rezn5nmiXDub9b1WkVuHdYNd5xvOFg5jD4zfayXDdmSmp78bpmFPuERvjAUqmNkUmCRnIF1Wvg3u1vjS6_kCv0TkmgRpN-p1l_fk/s1600/Bleau+Toerski+(108).JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Les aiguilles rouges d' Arolla ©Helmuth</td></tr>
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<h3>
June 2014</h3>
<div>
In June we went on a trip to Austria, organised by Don Bosco Wilrijk. We went sportclimbing, multi-pitching and hiking in the ötztal.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YLIyX_JM5rENqqEsXaIOQG2pg6aHGown6V-DwV9u-S_I30uUNBCdyzvR2OKqR2hOFiTMMaF3NR7OjMOexqNTry7uhyG9s_KMOaAYYDlxkui895XtoWkhcu1_lyFMTshWrRJ23CguO8c/s1600/IMG_1395.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2YLIyX_JM5rENqqEsXaIOQG2pg6aHGown6V-DwV9u-S_I30uUNBCdyzvR2OKqR2hOFiTMMaF3NR7OjMOexqNTry7uhyG9s_KMOaAYYDlxkui895XtoWkhcu1_lyFMTshWrRJ23CguO8c/s1600/IMG_1395.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself working on a 6C+ with Daan on belay duty ©Simon Ruymaekers</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cragging close to Längenfeld</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwgigz__HQSTHiCzkcH3Syj6ceTGzN9lGdbQ3_8opEsRjmJ4fMomfkhMDk7RSDqsIrkqdB0pJDDTRkbleyIYgdlUsNxGYWv080nIaj645nTkafVq6fi8wlA7BAC3Mjo8z7QU6F_wl62M/s1600/IMG_1440.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTwgigz__HQSTHiCzkcH3Syj6ceTGzN9lGdbQ3_8opEsRjmJ4fMomfkhMDk7RSDqsIrkqdB0pJDDTRkbleyIYgdlUsNxGYWv080nIaj645nTkafVq6fi8wlA7BAC3Mjo8z7QU6F_wl62M/s1600/IMG_1440.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andreas on the first pitch of "Schwalbennest"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon following the first pitch of "Schwalbennest"</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A view to Längenfeld from the third belay</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjZkf_RfT-3Z0MDPTfU6HSVInPLRjUtvtTmCKtutZKYbrNn8-rn5fjg8JYItgrZXCQRxOfCIvCXvfTA_DyHeKaAJYIvr3UqTa9WvIu4ALrcx6dxu4rDz99LHF3_quS_LoW1qvzZKZr8Cs/s1600/IMG_1463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjZkf_RfT-3Z0MDPTfU6HSVInPLRjUtvtTmCKtutZKYbrNn8-rn5fjg8JYItgrZXCQRxOfCIvCXvfTA_DyHeKaAJYIvr3UqTa9WvIu4ALrcx6dxu4rDz99LHF3_quS_LoW1qvzZKZr8Cs/s1600/IMG_1463.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6vjaR3gEJ4dKV4ck-IlMfbAa4-i9zKV34pVgch0q-fN0OXhfnJF0hAuyJlFQUbdTznKjA3mcG1iN6qCLELkl4zAK7PIp184dJIruYhNUKp2fjPtwnMXkRyr3zYBbR7KqI9yP2Us2KGVg/s1600/IMG_1466.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6vjaR3gEJ4dKV4ck-IlMfbAa4-i9zKV34pVgch0q-fN0OXhfnJF0hAuyJlFQUbdTznKjA3mcG1iN6qCLELkl4zAK7PIp184dJIruYhNUKp2fjPtwnMXkRyr3zYBbR7KqI9yP2Us2KGVg/s1600/IMG_1466.JPG" height="400" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon found the easy way ;)</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnz6Usjy1dv8EOoTDxMVMy145mdIg0gaCm3lhyNMJsgeVJ6-JjijiWJG-4pccAdmQvw1yLyVRN_8R5LLN7_KSdt1Lf368Lfzn-qEb57NaqLN-P63PegLg1Ln8rwtWkIl2L5zGktqdPSk4/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnz6Usjy1dv8EOoTDxMVMy145mdIg0gaCm3lhyNMJsgeVJ6-JjijiWJG-4pccAdmQvw1yLyVRN_8R5LLN7_KSdt1Lf368Lfzn-qEb57NaqLN-P63PegLg1Ln8rwtWkIl2L5zGktqdPSk4/s1600/IMG_1478.JPG" height="300" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simon shows the summit-logbook</td></tr>
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</div>
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-37026758779775281772014-11-19T19:28:00.000+01:002014-11-19T19:28:17.732+01:00Prayers in the Wind<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Dn5RYUZ1Ap8" width="640"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-80745311160649980442014-11-19T19:22:00.000+01:002014-11-19T19:29:25.642+01:00Always above us<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/xOm6Nktxof4" width="640"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-27217282739277490402014-04-30T15:06:00.000+02:002014-04-30T15:06:58.586+02:00The lost valleyWhat an awesome trip! Rafting to a remote bigwall!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/xPgeqHgE_ww" width="640"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-59787036833974407192014-04-15T11:05:00.002+02:002014-04-15T11:11:38.246+02:00Roadtrip in kbf magazine!Het artikel van onze roadtrip door de alpen is gepubliceerd in het klim- en bergsport magazine! Je kan het hier lezen vanaf pagina 26.<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="371" src="//e.issuu.com/embed.html#0/7489231" width="525"></iframe>Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-25309498501284660512014-01-16T20:03:00.000+01:002014-01-16T20:06:06.688+01:00Deadman anchorsThe ENSA (Ecole National de Ski et d' Alpinisme) performed some tests about the strength of different deadman anchors. The results are pretty interesting!<br />
<br />
1 daN = 1 kg (static load)<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="360" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/w7eDG6Wyg9Q" width="640"></iframe>
<br />
So next time, bring a cola bottle... It can save your life! ;)Bart Vaganéehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04021584561148790832noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-9471585988328545442013-12-26T21:00:00.000+01:002013-12-26T21:00:55.887+01:00Climbing Exposition Night<i>Sorry guys, this is an event for dutch-speaking people only ;)</i><br />
<br />
Op 13 februari 2014 zijn Jeroen en ik (Bart) uitgenodigd op de "Climbing Exposition Night" in Leuven om te komen praten over onze "Alpine Rock Roadtrip 2013". We gaan proberen u een aangename en boeiende presentatie voor te schotelen over onze avonturen, die zoals alle avonturen niet verlopen zijn zonder slag of stoot...<br />
<br />
Naast onze presentatie kan u ook een boeiende presentatie bijwonen van het Arriba Bolivia-project, een groep Vlaamse jongeren die naar Bolivia getrokken zijn om er een klimschool uit de grond te stampen en een klimmassief te behaken.<br />
<br />
Ten slotte zal er een presentatie zijn van de heren van Mount Coach 4, die op expeditie geweest zijn naar Kirgizië om er duizelingwekkende granieten wanden te beklimmen.<br />
<br />
<br />
Wij hopen u allen te kunnen verwelkomen op deze gezellige presentatie-avond.<br />
Jeroen en Bart<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-04H3k-wECmE/UryKFrGiggI/AAAAAAAAAGE/5hPCHAKrCVU/s1600/995972_10151757936525141_1979635483_n.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-04H3k-wECmE/UryKFrGiggI/AAAAAAAAAGE/5hPCHAKrCVU/s320/995972_10151757936525141_1979635483_n.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<br />
<i>Meer info over het evenement kan je <a href="https://www.facebook.com/events/335376666600860/?fref=ts" target="_blank">hier </a>terugvinden</i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Foto's en artikels over onze roadtrip kan je terugvinden op deze blog of op onze <a href="https://www.facebook.com/AlpineRockRoadtrip2013" target="_blank">facebook-pagina </a></i><br />
<i><br /></i>
<i>Info over Arriba Bolivia en Mount Coach kan je terugvinden op hun blog</i><br />
<a href="http://arribabolivia.wordpress.com/"><i>http://arribabolivia.wordpress.com/</i></a><br />
<a href="http://mountcoach.org/"><i>http://mountcoach.org/</i></a><br />
<br />
<br />
<br />Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-64385453315044677622013-11-27T14:13:00.000+01:002013-11-27T14:13:52.823+01:00Are you ready for winter?<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/77959171" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/77959171">Happy Winter</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5490470">Bjarne Salén</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-36821247882462891182013-10-21T21:00:00.002+02:002013-10-21T21:02:13.144+02:00Mount Coach: AlpamayoA short film of some Belgian friends of mine, about their expedition in Peru! Impressive!<br />
<br />
<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/77340627" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/77340627">Alpamayo Ferrari Route</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/samvanbrempt">Sam Van Brempt</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
<br />
You can read the full story on <a href="http://mountcoach.org/2012/07/17/tales-of-peru-2/" target="_blank">the Mount Coach blog</a> (in Dutch)Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-19667812105467499232013-10-19T13:42:00.000+02:002013-10-19T13:42:12.766+02:00Ueli Steck climbs Annapurna South Face!<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/76978752" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/76978752">Ueli Steck - Annapurna South Face - Quick Edit from Nepal</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/fenomcreative">Fenom Creative Group</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-25927575848029576142013-10-07T17:07:00.000+02:002013-10-07T17:12:15.405+02:00Review Black Diamond Vector Helmet<h3>
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Black Diamond</span></strong></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">In the
late 1950’s, climber Yvon Chouniard began forging pitons and started selling
them in the Yosemite Valley out of the trunk of his car. Chouniard Equipment
was born and settled in Ventura, California. The gear Chouniard Equipment
manufactured gained a good reputation for quality through the years.</span></strong><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">But the
success was only for short therm. In 1989, the company became bankrupt because
of some product-liability lawsuits and lack of profitability. The leftovers
from Chouniard Equipment where bought by a group of former employees under the
supervision of Peter Metcalf, the current CEO and was renamed Black Diamond
Equipment. The company was moved to Salt Lake City, Utah in 1991 to be closer
to the climbing and skiing of the Wasatch Mountains.</span></strong><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">In 1996,
Black Diamond Equipment Europe was established in Switzerland and in 2006 Black
Diamond Equipment Asia was established in China to ensure the global growth of
the company.</span></strong><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></strong></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">Srce:
Wikipedia</span></strong><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></strong></div>
<h3>
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Description</span></strong></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;">A
revolutionary helmet that's ideal for long routes, alpine climbs and other
weight-sensitive missions, the Black Diamond Vector Helmet combines lightweight
protection, excellent ventilation and "barely there" comfort like
never before. The geometric, co-molded EPS foam and polycarbonate shell
provides full-coverage protection while remaining incredibly lightweight and
comfortable, and the generous ventilation ports keep air flowing on warm days.
The ratcheting suspension tucks away for easy storage in your pack, and when
the sun gets down before you do, the Vector's in-mold headlamp clips provide an
ultra-secure attachment.</span></strong><span lang="EN-US"><o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; font-weight: normal; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-font-weight: bold;"><br /></span></strong></div>
<h3>
<strong><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: "Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;">Details</span></strong></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p></o:p></div>
<ul style="margin-top: 0cm;" type="disc">
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;"><span lang="EN-US">Co-molded EPS foam with polycarbonate shell<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;"><span lang="EN-US">Large ventilation ports provide max airflow<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;"><span lang="EN-US">Ratchet adjuster with molded push buttons<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;"><span lang="EN-US">In-mold headlamp clips for ultra-secure
attachment<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;"><span lang="EN-US">Tuck-away suspension makes for compact storage<o:p></o:p></span></li>
<li class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; mso-list: l0 level1 lfo1;">Available in 2
sizes<o:p></o:p></li>
</ul>
<div class="MsoNormal" style="margin-bottom: .0001pt; margin-bottom: 0cm; margin-left: 36.0pt; margin-right: 0cm; margin-top: 0cm;">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Size Range
: [S/M] 53-59 cm, 21-23 in; [M/L] 58-63
cm, 23-25 in<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Weight
: [S/M] 231 g, 8.1 oz; [M/L] 240 g, 8.5
oz<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyrfDxoNOTn1v1L5zbIgtNWAHjaPOqHEFBPHti4w2Kv_7G1lcNd1WBbl9vaXiaf82BjoXwZDgPknQuBD6FT6yQO0sllYg4lCmIHXGuV0TiQAiCGw1ieI0R6PUtOIqZC8UAOFoYaVVQj0/s1600/620213_vector_oran_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyrfDxoNOTn1v1L5zbIgtNWAHjaPOqHEFBPHti4w2Kv_7G1lcNd1WBbl9vaXiaf82BjoXwZDgPknQuBD6FT6yQO0sllYg4lCmIHXGuV0TiQAiCGw1ieI0R6PUtOIqZC8UAOFoYaVVQj0/s200/620213_vector_oran_web.jpg" width="200" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7TUCdCKucc9F4FuUh5r4Ri40rn37Beg8aVRfDpyNLPDavWHyo0uQvt3iWny6AGN0WEN7ZaUhlDwgxjIWVeUR5baj71P3-KE982qHxhuwZLctnJPW5x94t2quhyphenhyphen3bnyzg4DomjM-nGiCI/s1600/620213_vector_oran_rtbk_web.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7TUCdCKucc9F4FuUh5r4Ri40rn37Beg8aVRfDpyNLPDavWHyo0uQvt3iWny6AGN0WEN7ZaUhlDwgxjIWVeUR5baj71P3-KE982qHxhuwZLctnJPW5x94t2quhyphenhyphen3bnyzg4DomjM-nGiCI/s200/620213_vector_oran_rtbk_web.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<h3>
<b><span lang="EN-US">My opinion</span></b></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">Suspension <o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">When I’ve
put on the helmet for the first time, I was astonished by its lightness and comfort.
I also tried the Petzl Meteror III+ helmet, but I found out that the Vector was
more comfortable because of the difference in the suspension. The Vector has a
flat foam on the inside and doesn’t create pressure points on the forehead when
tightened. On the rear the adjustment system works the same as the Meteor, but
it appears to sit lower on the back of the head and it envelops the head in a
more stable way. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The rear suspension is
very lightweight and it tucks away for easy storage, time will tell us if it
will hold up years of abuse. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">Protection<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicIpkIFZQ0636pubvWHVG0k_T_hMUTRC1LTJqEHTpj77eOEQeHDybBYRtosph1Crt4u7ry-v_AuQPzOtSDqN77PFNTOq48yGVmTWqbaZp51FiQyfsETUeUiXl1pGbT1LnjCF20o6M5yY/s1600/DSC01550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjicIpkIFZQ0636pubvWHVG0k_T_hMUTRC1LTJqEHTpj77eOEQeHDybBYRtosph1Crt4u7ry-v_AuQPzOtSDqN77PFNTOq48yGVmTWqbaZp51FiQyfsETUeUiXl1pGbT1LnjCF20o6M5yY/s320/DSC01550.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">©Jeroen VC<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The Vector
is one of the most protective foam helmets around. The helmet sits very low on
your head so it doesn’t only protects the top of your head like most helmets,
but it also covers the forehead, the back of the head and the sides. Thereby it
also protects you well when you hit the rock face during a fall. The helmet
also has a protective advantage above some hybrid helmets (foam inside, hard
outer layer) those helmets are heavier and some tend to shift backwards when
you look up, leaving your forehead exposed to impacts. On the vector, this
problem is solved by its lightness and the stable suspension. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Although a
foam helmet is designed to break on impact and thereby distribute the impact
force, it is still pretty rugged. It took some hard ice-impacts while belaying
a brittle alpine ice route and it was tossed around during transport. After a
full alpine summer season it is still going strong! There are only a few little
dents and scratches in the outer shell. This doesn’t mean you shouldn’t take
care of it, because if you drop a heavy backpack on top there is a big chance
it will be crushed.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">The only
issue I had with the protection of the helmet, was that when I looked down when
ice or rocks where falling sometimes a small piece hit the back of my head,
because it fell through the venting holes. I advise to keep your head straight
when rocks are falling. BD did however a good job by placing the venting holes
on places who are less prone to be struck by falling rocks. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">Ventilation<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJEGOBOZIWqdlmMAFFJn68WG5JewrbKhQThc4dNws-Eg0K2EfHd6kqJwOLGOWtN2H8VjaD41qCrEdzrF2hLMj2mh_ZNz3Gw_sgcplnxL8wS9eI-aCQz9c69ciUUOJ9D57n2vjFTlWCTI/s1600/DSC01549.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwJEGOBOZIWqdlmMAFFJn68WG5JewrbKhQThc4dNws-Eg0K2EfHd6kqJwOLGOWtN2H8VjaD41qCrEdzrF2hLMj2mh_ZNz3Gw_sgcplnxL8wS9eI-aCQz9c69ciUUOJ9D57n2vjFTlWCTI/s320/DSC01549.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">©Jeroen VC<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Like I
said, most of the venting holes are placed on the back of the helmet and two on
the front. At first I thought this was going to be an issue because there is
less ventilation on the sides, but my head was always very well ventilated. On
the inside, the sides of the foam are cut out to create an airflow from the
front to the back which solves the problem.<o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">There were
some times I even wished the helmet wasn’t so well ventilated and a cold wind
entered the ventilation in the back. This is where a hooded fleece or jacket
came in handy. A hood easily covers most of the venting holes . <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><i><span lang="EN-US">Design<o:p></o:p></span></i></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">Although
the design of the helmet is inferior to its protecting capabilities, it is
still very important in my opinion. I mean, who wants to wear an ugly helmet? If
you look cool with a helmet on your head you will wear it a more. That’s what
it’s all about! <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">I think BD
did a good job in designing these helmets. They used some beautifully
contrasting colors and I like the geometrical lines running through the shell. I
have the orange version and it looks great on the photos! ;)</span> </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<o:p></o:p><br />
<h3>
<b><span lang="EN-US">Conclusion</span></b></h3>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">It’s a
great well ventilated and -protective, lightweight helmet but it needs a bit
more care and it has a high price tag. <o:p></o:p></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Positive</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<ul>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Lightweight</span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Comfortable</span></li>
<li><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">Well-vented</span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Fall
protection forehead/sides/back</span></li>
</ul>
<br />
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpLast" style="mso-list: l1 level1 lfo2; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<span lang="EN-US"><br /></span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<b><span lang="EN-US">Negative</span></b></div>
<div class="MsoListParagraphCxSpFirst" style="mso-list: l2 level1 lfo3; text-indent: -18.0pt;">
<!--[if !supportLists]--></div>
<ul>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Less durable</span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Expensive</span></li>
<li><span lang="EN-US" style="font-family: Symbol; text-indent: -18pt;"><span style="font-family: 'Times New Roman'; font-size: 7pt;"> </span></span><span lang="EN-US" style="text-indent: -18pt;">Stones can fall through ven</span><span style="text-indent: -18pt;">ts</span></li>
</ul>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBq9zmfdSUOoCuZtITwSMQQfEVdBC1vuy4bhS7LwJQm5s6KyXYxATCwuoOI7hl7h3sZs5W3PNPZjnPBxjAofrGJT4C6j7XRQPtIDToBtifuyP-iZ6thNeBPceE0VPz6QP9uBBOXh2We08/s1600/SAM_0096+copy.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjBq9zmfdSUOoCuZtITwSMQQfEVdBC1vuy4bhS7LwJQm5s6KyXYxATCwuoOI7hl7h3sZs5W3PNPZjnPBxjAofrGJT4C6j7XRQPtIDToBtifuyP-iZ6thNeBPceE0VPz6QP9uBBOXh2We08/s400/SAM_0096+copy.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span lang="EN-US">©Barry Smith<o:p></o:p></span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div style="text-indent: -24px;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-indent: -24px;">
<br /></div>
Bart Vaganéehttp://www.blogger.com/profile/04021584561148790832noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2327723096848154636.post-59729664274612470522013-09-23T13:54:00.001+02:002013-09-23T13:54:21.550+02:00Let the winter come!<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="400" mozallowfullscreen="" src="//player.vimeo.com/video/74417214?color=999999" webkitallowfullscreen="" width="600"></iframe> <br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/74417214">Wrangelled - A Ski-mountaineering Flick</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/arcteryx">ARC'TERYX</a> on <a href="https://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.Anonymoushttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13714913415285239476noreply@blogger.com0