It’s
getting warmer and the sun starts to burn… We leave the snowy Furkapas behind
us but a bitter feeling starts to get the upper hand. For me, it was the second
time I passed the Albert Heimhutte and both times, I couldn’t do anything but
look at the famous Graue Wand… Only one thought lingered in my head: third time
best time, this summer, I will be on the summit!
Three hours
of driving brings us to climbers’ heaven; Chamonix, a city that never seems to
sleep. When the last drunk finally stumbles out of the pub, you can already
hear the jingling of climbers who don’t want to miss the first cable car.
It was my
first time in Chamonix and I have to admit that I got overwhelmed by the
aggressive views. I couldn’t think but “waauw”. After a rainy day of waiting
and lingering around, we packed our bags to set off for a couple days at
Envers les Aiguilles. Our purpose was to climb some classics and to have the
corners of our crack climbing technique rubbed off. We took the little train of
Mer de Glace, which gave us some more time, and after a while we arrived at the
glacier. There was only one problem: the clouds hadn't left yet and there
we stood, like two clowns on the glacier in thick clouds, guessing the way to
the ladders. We walked way too far and took the old way up, which led us over a
loose moraine, where big rocks - as big as a car - fall down often. Hours of
walking on steep slopes of grass and clambering over rocks finally took us to
the old stairs and – some kind of – way, which led us to the Envers hut. We
were both exhausted. We quickly drank some beer and after some negotiating with
the friendly hut keeper, we were allowed to put up our tent at 50m from the
hut. A beautiful place to bivouac, which overlooked Dent du Geant, Grandes
Jorasses, Droites, Courtes, Verte, … Except for some cooking, eating and
enjoying the view we weren’t capable anymore for doing anything.
Time to sleep.
The next morning Bart didn’t feel well, maybe the effort had asked to much from
him? We decided to take a day off, enjoying the sun and all magazines we
could find in the mountain hut. Day two at Envers didn’t bring anything
better, Bart felt even worse and seemed to have a little fever. He hadn’t slept
very well and he looked like hell. After some deliberation, Bart decided to
return to the valley. I stayed up there, alone, hoping to find a climbing
partner. With success! After asking around a bit, I met Henink, a German who’s
climbing partner had caught a cold and was forced to stay in bed. Together we
climbed Le Piège a classic crack-climbing route of 6 pitches and a 6b+ start or
a 5c variation. Henink had climbed this route before and asked me to lead the
first pitch (the big crack). With an approach of only 2 minutes and no warming
up, it was a heavy first pitch. After some cruxes with a lot of handjamming and
fistjamming, you are finally able to put cam 4 in and from then on it gets
easier. It was a very nice route with a lot of cracks, some dihedrals; all
perfectly protectable. The whole route was only protected by a few bolts. After
more or less three hours we got back to the terrace of the hut.
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| Approaching the Envers Hut |
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| Base camp! |
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| Bart, feeling a bit ill |
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The next
day, Henink’s climbing partner felt a lot better and I had to look for a new
climbing mate. This time it took me a little longer to find someone, but
finally I got in touch with a group of youngsters from Paris. They treated me
very friendly and a little later I got to know Kim and Joseph. After a while, our
minds were made up: we would climb Guy-Anne insolité, at the first point of the
Natillions. Although the day started slow, we were able to get off with a
flying start in the route, with Kim on lead. I quickly found out that Joseph
wasn’t really into shape. Already on the third pitch, a beautiful small crack
with a big flake, he couldn’t manage to get to the stand. Kim and I had to rig
him up. Joseph wasn’t in the mood to go ahead and told us to carry on while he would wait right there. Then
it’s my turn to lead a diagonal crack, heavy but beautiful. Each time I want to
put some protection in the crack, I have to hold on close, crawl into the crack
and put in the right size of friend/nut. What a beautiful pitch! Everything
carried on very smoothly, with alternating cracks and slabs, which are quite
difficult to me. At this moment, I don’t really like slab climbing, but I hope
that one day, I will be able to change that. During our ascent, huge
thunderclouds were starting to form above the Jorasses and a little before the summit we decide to
descend. The rappelling went very smooth and after six hours we got back to
Joseph, who spent this time sleeping, hanging on the belay. He was happy to see
us. Could it be he regretted that he had send us up without him? After a while we
got back in the hut and the thunderstorm starts. The proof we made a wise and
safe decision.
The next
day I climb with Kim again, this time we go for Marchand de Sable. The route
has a difficult slab start. The first bolt is at a height of 6m, and
because of the huge bergschrund it isn’t recommended at all to fall before this
bolt. The third pitch, I’m on lead and I get the chance to climb a dihedral pitch,
which is said to be a 5c, quite tough and without any rests. To be honest: it
doesn’t feel like a 5c at all… Although I’ve never climbed such a difficult 5c
in my entire life, it was a magnificent climb. Nevertheless I was relieved when
I got to the belay. After four pitches, we got the same experience. A 5c (NOT) in a dihedral, as hard as the previous, but at least as
beautiful as the previous. Kim showed to be mentally strong while easily
climbing over slabs where the distance between the bolts often was up to 5/6m,
and sometimes even in a traverse… A little before another pitch of slabs, we were forced to descend because of bad weather. This time we got bad luck and already at
the first rappel we turn up in a real rain-and hailstorm. We both rappel like
crazy people, and after one hour we arrive at our backpacks, soaking wet…
Luckily we didn’t get stuck in real heavy weather. Again a new adventure!
The whole
group of Paris’ youngsters is going to descend tomorrow and I decide to join
them, so I won’t have to do the long descend on my own. And I need to go down
for some supplies anyway. That night we sat together to drink some cans of beer
and the friendly hut keeper offered us some Génépi. The next morning, the descend is a piece of
cake and now I see the way we had to take in the first place at the ascent. So
better next time!
Descending to chamonix
When I
return to Chamonix, I find Bart, who is already looking a lot better. He has
settled down on a cozy camping. There I get to know Steve, a British climber
who has a lot of experience. Bart doesn’t feel entirely recuperated yet and
decides to take some more rest. I also take a day off and the day after I climb
a small route on the Aiguillette of the Aiguilles rouges, with a couple of
Danes. Then, again, I made the ascent to Envers, with Steve. Because there
isn’t enough place in the hut at this moment, we take our sleeping bags and
matrasses with us and the first night we sleep outside, dreaming of our
objective: Bienvenue chez George V, again a classic route.
The next morning we
got up early, but not early enough. At the base of our route, we find a couple
of wiseacres who believe they are standing underneath Guy-Anne insolité. We
show them the real way to the route, but they don’t take our advice. After a
lot of discussing - in which those guys gave the wind direction as an argument
-, they had to admit we were right.
They couldn’t ignore the fact that we already climbed this route, and we weren’t
THAT forgettable yet… All together we lost almost half an hour talking to those
guys. But we didn’t allow this incident to ruin our day, and little later I took
off with the first pitch, a 6a+ which is hard but quite easy to protect. At the
start we lost a lot of time by going in the wrong direction, which made us end
up twice at the wrong belay. A guide passed us, he was very quick. His gear: 4 quickdraws and 3 cams. Our gear: three times as much as he
has. He even omits some bolts and he seems to fly over the slabs where I’m
almost trembling. The route we are climbing has a lot of variety: slabs,
cracks, dihedrals,… all can be found in this route. I’m pleased to find out
that the slabs are better protected than on the previous routes I’ve climbed
this summer.
We enjoyed each pitch, while the sun was burning above us. The
rappels first gave us something to think about, because of the many boulders
and cracks where the rope may get caught. Important to be careful! Some excellent
teamwork brought us back to the snow quickly. That evening we were pleased to
see there was some room in the hut, and after a night of some good sleep, we
are ready for Children of the moon. Not an easy route. The approach takes us
almost an hour, while climbing on a steep snowfield. Slipping isn’t an
option, because it would mean a harsh landing on Mer de Glace, in only a few
seconds. This means a great need to concentrate. Thereafter we lose time
searching for the route and going over a bergschrund who may collapse anytime.
When we finally reach the route, the first pitch goes on very smooth. But in
the second pitch we find some difficulties: the way up isn’t very clear, so we
take the wrong direction. When we look in the guidebook, we find out we need to
do some crack climbing, but we can’t find one! After some looking around and
doubting, I find the right way up and when I finally find the belay, I’m
bursting with joy. One pitch later, we decide to bail. Because of the late
start and the lots of time we lost, we decide it’s more likeable to start
rappelling. We still need to do a very long descent and we aren’t willing to
miss the last train to the city. This time we are lucky and at 7 p.m. we are
both sitting in a pub, cheerfully drinking some beer. Envers les Aiguilles, I
love it!!! Be sure, you will find me up there again!
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| The Aiguillette d' Argentière |
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| Bivy at Envers |
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| Steve in Guy-Anne insolité |
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| Walking back to the Hut |
The next
day, again, I climb with Steve on a short multi pitch above the Flégère Index.
A nice climb with a magnificent view, but the gneiss isn’t very well. After an
easy climb and some relaxing in the cable car, we are able to enjoy Happy Hour
in a English pub! Cheers!
Info:
You can
find the guidebook of Envers les Aiguilles in every bookshop and newsstand in
Chamonix, although you can find them a little cheaper in Belgium.
A round
trip Chamonix-Montevers Mer de Glace costs 27, 40 euros.
The
mountain hut is really great, with a kind hutkeeper and a great sphere of
climbers who are always willingly to help you out or to recommend a great
route. Staying up here for a couple of days is really recommended. Besides you can enjoy a magnificent view and if you
show your alpine club member-card, you even get some reduction! And if you’re
not in the mood to do some cooking, you can take dinner at the hut, which makes
you feel like you’re in a restaurant! Off course you’re also able to cook and
sleep by yourself, which is a lot cheaper. That’s why there are some places to
bivouac, although they aren’t that big and they are occupied really quick. Camping
isn’t allowed!
In Chamonix, we stayed in camping "les arolles". It is a nice camping site in Chamonix-sud, on walking distance of the Midi-cablecar. The camping is climber-orientated and with the communal table it is easy to meet people.
Text: Jeroen Van Campenhout
Translation: Annelies Vaganée
Pictures: Jeroen Van Campenhout
